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How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily)

 

introHow to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily)

The idea behind this Instructable was to fulfill my desire for a desktop sized CNC machine. While it would have been nice to purchase an off the shelf unit the issue of price as well as size proved prohibitive. With this in mind I endeavored to design and build a three axis CNC machine with the following factors in mind:

-Use Simple tools (needs only a drill press, band saw, and hand tools)
-Low Cost (this kind of got away from me however with everything bought off the shelf the cost for all parts is under $600 (significant savings could be made by skillfully sourcing some pieces))
-Small footprint (30" x 25" footprint)
-Usable working envelope (10" X-axis, 14" Y-Axis, 4" Z-Axis)
-Relativly fast cut rate (60" per minute)
-Small part count (fewer than 30 unique parts)
-Easy to source parts (all parts available from 4 sources (Home Depot + 3 online sources)
-Ability to cut ply-wood (Succesful)

Lets get started...

UPDATE: - Coming soon the ability to order pre-cut MDF pieces from oomlout
How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily)
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step 1Others Who Have Finished

A salute to those who have laboured through to this point (and to demonstrate that it is reproducable) Here are some pictures of other peoples machines.

Photo 1 - Chris and his friend put together this unit; laser cutting the parts out of half inch acrylic. Not only does it look super it must weigh a ton. But kudos, anyone who's worked with acrylic knows laser cutting it is great but it is a very very unfriendly material to drill and there is a lot of side drilling in this design. Good job guys, check out more details (and photos including some testing with circuit boards) on Chris's blog rainbowlazer.com. I particularly like his work with making 3-d objects out of 2d cuts (here) .

Photo 2 - Sam McCaskill has finished his desktop CNC machine and it's looking really really nice. Super impressively he also resisted the urge to cheat and cut all his pieces by hand. I'm really impressed.

Photo 3 - Angry Monk's - With MDF pieces cut on a laser cutter and drive converted from toothed belts to threaded rod

Photo 4 - Bret Golab's - Bret has completed his and gone through the extra step of getting it setup to work with Linux CNC (a task I attempted and was foiled by complexity). If you're interested in his settings you can send him a message (Instructable ID: bretlyssii ) ). Great job Bret!

(If you have built one and would like it featured here, please send me a PM and we can arrange for the sending of photos)

Others Who Have Finished
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Chris's (RainbowLazer.com).jpgIMG_0455.JPGPicture 1 - Angry Monk's .jpgBret Golab's.jpg

step 2Specs.

I'm afraid I don't have the space (or the expertise for that matter) to go into the fundamentals of CNC here but there is one websites in particular I found quite useful in my research.

CNCZone.com - A discussion forum which has a DIY machine section which is a wealth of knowledge ( direct link )

Machine Details:

Cutting Head: Dremel or Dremel Type Tool

Axis Details:

X Axis
travel: 14"
Drive: Toothed Timing Belt
Speed: 60" min
Acceleration: 1" per second2
Resolution: 1/2000"
Pulses Per inch: 2001

Y Axis
Travel: 10"
Drive: Toothed Timing Belt
Speed: 60" min
Acceleration: 1" per second2
Resolution: 1/2000"
Pulses Per inch: 2001

Z Axis (up down)
Travel: 4"
Drive: Threaded Rod
Acceleration: .2" per second2
Speed: 12" min
Resolution: 1/8000"
Pulses Per Inch: 8000
Specs.
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step 3Required Tools

The goal was to try and keep the tools required within the realm of an average handyman's shop.

Power Tools:

-Band Saw or Scroll Saw
-Drill Press (drill bits 1/4", 5/16", 7/16", 5/8", 7/8", 8mm also Q (5/16" closest imperial drill bit)
-Printer (seemed like the right category)
-Dremel or Similar Tool (to attach to the finished machine)

Hand Tools:

-Rubber Mallet (to provide "persuasion" when neccesary)
-Hex Keys (5/64", 1/16")
-Screw Driver
-Glue Stick (UHU) or spray adhesive
-Adjustable Wrench (or 7/16" socket and ratchet)
Required Tools
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step 4Required Parts

The attached PDF (CNC-Part-Summary.pdf) provides detailed cost and sourcing information for each and every required part. Listed here is only a summary

Sheet Stock --- $20
-a 48" x 48" piece of 1/2" thick MDF (any 1/2" sheet stock can be used I have plans to make my next version out of UHMW but cost was prohibitive this time around)
-a 5"x5" piece of 3/4" thick MDF (this is used to make spacers so any piece of 3/4" stock found around the shop could be used)

Motors and Controllers ---- $255
-An entire instructable could be written on chosing a controller and motors. In short what is required is a controller capable of three axes of control (with pulsed step and direction inputs) and motors with about 100 oz/in holding torque. I sourced mine from http://hobbycnc.com they have worked well and the kit was quite easy to solder. ( direct link )

Hardware--- $275
-These parts can be acquired from three places. The conventional items can be acquired at Home Depot, the specialty drive products are easy to find at any industrial supplier, I used McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) (I chose them because they have a nice online store), and finally because of the large number of bearings required I found the best price from an online seller (http://vxb.com) which sells 100 for $40 (leaves quite a few left over for other projects) ( direct link )

Software --- (free)
-What is required is a program to draw your designs (I use CorelDraw), and a programme capable of interpreting these files into pulses to be sent to your controller. I'm currently using a trial version of Mach3 ( http://www.machsupport.com )but have plans to convert to LinuxCNC (An open source machine controller which uses linux) ( http://www.linuxcnc.org )

Router Head--- (extra)
-I attached a dremel type cutting tool to my machine however if you are more interested in additive construction (like fab@home or RepRap) you may wish to look into their deposition tools.

Details

-the metric components and especially the cross nuts aren't very popular and I had to visit several Home Depots in my area before I had enough.
-I couldn't find a way to link to parts directly on the MCMaster Carr site. To find them go to www.mcmaster.com and search for the part #
Required Parts
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C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\04-Parts.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\04-partsCover.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\04-partsExample.jpg

step 5Printing Pattern

I had some experience Scroll Sawing pieces so I choose to use a glue on pattern method. What is required is to print out the PDF pattern files onto tiled pages, then glue on each pattern, and cutout each piece.

File Name and Material:

Summary: CNC-Cut-Summary.pdf
0.5" MDF (35 8.5"x11" tiled pages): CNC-0.5MDF-CutLayout-(Rev3).pdf
0.75" MDF: CNC-0.75MDF-CutLayout-(Rev2).pdf
0.75" Aluminum Tube: CNC-0.75Alum-CutLayout-(Rev3).pdf
0.5" MDF (1 48"x48" page): CNC-(One 48x48 Page) 05-MDF-CutPattern.pdf


(note: I've added a DXF version of the 0.5" MDF pattern to this step (DXF-05-MDF-SimpleDXF.dxf) I have removed the cross drilled holes and writing from this file to make it a manageable size, if anyone would like any of the drawings in a different format or including different information please just drop me a line and I'll do what I can)

(note: I've included the original CorelDraw format drawings in a zip file (CNC-CorelDrawFormat-CutPatterns(Rev2).zip) for anyone who wishes to do some editing)

(UPDATE: There is now a choice in patterns for the 0.5" MDF layer, you can download one file (CNC-0.5MDF-CutLayout-(Rev3).pdf ) with 35 8.5"x11" pages tiled, or you can download one file (CNC-(One 48x48 Page) 05-MDF-CutPattern.pdf) which has the entire layout on one 48"x48" page to print on a large format printer or tile yourself)

(Step by step)
1.Download the three layout pdf files
2.Open each in Adobe Reader
3.Goto the Print Dialog
4.(IMPORTANT) in the page scaling dialog select "none"
5.Check to make sure the file didn't accidentally get scaled to do this measure the printed ruler on page one of each pattern (make sure it matches up with a ruler you trust) (I didn't do this the first time and accidentally printed out a copy at 90% size more on this later)
Printing Pattern
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C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\05-MDFPattern.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\05-SpacerPattern.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\05-AlumPattern.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\05-CutCover.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\05-CutExample.jpg

step 6Gluing Down the Pattern

Next step is to Glue the pattern to the MDF stock and Aluminum Tubing

1.Glue the tiled pages to your sheet stock (MDF) ensuring the edges match up
2.For the aluminum tube the pattern must be glued to two sides. If the Tube is laying flat on a table and you glue the side A patterns to the top side B can be glued on either of the side faces.

Tips:
-Use lots of glue
-Have something near by to help push down each piece
-Patience
(if anyone else has tips on doing this I would love to hear them)
Gluing Down the Pattern
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C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\05-PatternStart.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\05-PatternFinish.jpg

step 7Cutout Pieces

Not too much to say for this step simply cut around each outline.
Cutout Pieces
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C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\06-CutoutFinishedPieces.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\(2007-05-10) Random Shop Photos (ducks)\IMG_0187.jpg

step 8Cheating

I must apologize at this stage I succumb to the desire to cheat. As mentioned earlier I accidentally printed out my initial pattern at 90% size. Unfortunatly I did not realize this until this stage. So left with a 90% scale set of pieces and having moved across country I was now within reach of a full size CNC router table. I gave in and cut my pieces using this machine. However it was unable to do the drilling of holes so back to the real steps (this is why all the pieces from here on out do not have paper patterns glued on them)

step 9Hole Drilling

I have not counted but this project requires a lot of holes. The holes which are drilled into the edge of the material are particularly important so just take your time, you'll appreciate it later when you need to use the rubber mallet only sparingly.

The areas with holes drilled overlapping are an attempt to create grooves if you have a table router that would work much better for this.
Hole Drilling
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step 10Assembling

If you've made it this far I must offer my congratulations and suggest it only gets better from here. Looking at the pile of pieces picturing how it manages to become a machine may be a tad abstract so I tried my best to create instructions as close to those produced by LEGO. (downloadable in the attached pdf CNC-Assembly-Instructions.pdf). But in the interest of amusing along the way here is a timelapse of me putting my machine together.


Assembling
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C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\07-ReadyToGo.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\07-InstructionsCover.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\07-Instruction Example.jpg

step 11Software, Wiring and Configuring

Almost there. All that is required is to wire up your motors and controller following their instructions, and to set up your control software using the included instructions and the machine specific details included here in step 2.
Software, Wiring and Configuring
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step 12Finished

There you have it hopefully you are finished and ready to go into production. I hope I have not left out any crucial details but if you think of something you'd like to know which I have omitted please just ask. Finally to demonstrate that it all works a video of my machine cutting out a pattern in pink foam.


Finished
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C:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\(2007-06-17) Cleaning up and CNC\IMG_1093.jpgC:\Documents and Settings\Aaron\My Documents\Plotter Stuff\00-Active\Instructable Files\01-closeup.jpg
517 comments
1-50 of 517
Mar 28, 2010. 12:12 PMtony youness says:
from where can I buy the controller. and can I have the electric diagram
Mar 5, 2010. 4:47 PMgadgit says:
Love to build this cnc but I can't access imperial size mdf in australia. Would it be possible to scale the plans down slightly so that metric size sheets can be used? The closest thickness we have is 12mm mdf which is a 94.5% scale reduction on 1/2 inch  which will also scale the 3/4 inch pieces nicely to 18mm (also commonly available).

Also the paper dimensions are showing in acrobat is 8x10?
Mar 28, 2010. 12:01 PMfruttenboel says:
I live in Europe mainland. Our MDF and plywoods are rated in millimeters. But only for 'convenience'. If I measure the MDF, the 12 mm is 12,7 mm = 1/2". the 18 mm is 19 mm = 3/4". All sizes are in inches and feet. Full sheets are 122 cm x 244 cm. Not a logical ISO value. Concrete plywood is 125 x 250 cm. Now, THAT is an ISO size!

What it boils down to: 122 cm = 4 feet. 244 cm is 8 feet. MDF is always delivered in imperial units....
Mar 28, 2010. 3:41 AMrumplesnitz says:
are you saying you cannot get 1/2 inch thick MDF in Austrailia?  Is this some kind of import restriction?  I'll be more than happy to set us up an MDF import business because I can get you all of that you want straight from a local manufacturer near me.
Mar 27, 2010. 2:23 AMtony youness says:
thank you for offering this site .This is really amazing .
please can I have the all dimensions for the base .
Mar 22, 2010. 12:57 PMabadv8 says:
If you plot the drawings on a laser printer, you can simply use a hot iron to transfer the details to your substrate as the toner is thermally activated... 
Mar 21, 2010. 5:51 PMslamsworld says:
I have completed this project after lots of research behind it  - gave me wood the first time it run - this is such a fantastic tutorial the author deserves a Nobel Prize for what ever this qualifies for
Mar 17, 2010. 5:01 AMdavidbue says:
 Hi all. Building a CNC router quickly becomes a big project. More a hobby that just a project you finish up.

I have built my own CNC mill capable of milling in softer metal alloys a few years ago. Using is and keeping it running takes up a lot of time but is also great fun. 

I've made everything but the stepper motors and Win32 software myself. Hardware platform, electronics, PCB and micro-controller firmware. You can check out the build at my website:  www.volunteerlabrat.com/cnc.html

Should you choose to make your own CNC mill then go for it. It's so much fun!

Cheers! David
finished_cnc.jpgcnc_controller.jpg
Mar 13, 2010. 9:27 PMdragonart777 says:

i got evething today but the motor and motherboard   
i spent from 7 am  to just know  12:13 am   lineing up the sheet's of paper
and cuting the wood out  

for thow's that have not started  get the layout printed at staple's ask for a 48"x48"  well take a week to get it they well hafe to ship it  well cost you 23$
don't get it as a blueprint  it will have line's in it that well mess you up on your cut's    

if not  have fun it well take you a good bit and a fest in the wall

2ed  don't  do what i did  i used a jegsaw  couse my roter router wen't up
i new i would not have a good cut from the start  but i got a really good cut for it being a jegsaw  bad timeing for my roter router grrrr

as for that   i got everthing cut  ill put it togather tomorew  wonce i get my motor's and all i thank ill just have my cnc cut me new board's thin replace it

thank's again  out of every cnc i seen   your's or the best  and very easy to understand   i feel like im building a $5.000 cnc  here  i thot it was going to be small but hmmm biger thin i thot   i did exstend the bass thow
couse after im done im going to exstend everthing 

p.s  i am haveing fun with this project  and it's not something that well take you one day  so im really likeing this  

Mar 13, 2010. 6:32 PMcoolstuff100 says:
may you please make it so their is just a track and a turning nob with a gear or something SIMPLE !!!!!!
Mar 12, 2010. 3:59 AMdragonart777 says:
i started buy everthing for this last nite  i got to get the wood today waiting on truck waking up 5 am geting everthng ready :)

got something to ask you thow  not for me couse well i done gone throw this
and sorry for the spelling here

i taken the meserment's to homedepo  for the nut's and bolt's  and well had a problem  0.25  is 1/4  in   i not used to this meserment i felt like a noob walking into homedepo into i had 5 home depo worker's working on this with me lol  is there a way you can post a txt or something for the next  someone     i allready got it figered out  not hard to learn just did not know it

this my farst time even trying to build  or run a cnc   i built halfpipe's and music studio's so  this won't be a problem 

thank you for this by the way  i spent 2 munth's studioing cnc programs'
and looking for digram's and help   out of all of thim   i got every info off your page and even understand it better   your's is allso the best i seen on here
i well take a pic of it after done for you
Mar 6, 2010. 12:06 PMtech3312 says:
Nice instructables on the CNC, i would like to double the size of this CNC machine. Which section of drawing do it have to expand so it can accomodate the design. I know that the Nema sockets and the screws cannot be doubled so i cannot tell the print 200% of it's actual size. I have autocad 2010 so i can edit the drawings. But do you know an easier way of doubling this size?
Mar 4, 2010. 9:01 PMrobotron997 says:
hi i am not able to understand how the motor is connected with the belt or the rail in the y axis and x axis can you explain it briefly
 
Mar 4, 2010. 9:51 AMthe merog says:
Can anybody help by answering this...

How to control the z-axis, if laser cutter is used (ON/OFF)?

Awaiting replies...//MEROG
Feb 25, 2010. 12:21 PM214595 says:
hello i am interested in your plans but i have 3/4" MDF can i still make it or are there many changes that have to be made

if you can email me at nicholasfischer@rogers.com i would really apprecoate it
Feb 28, 2010. 9:23 PMkatzsplat says:
You won't be able to use 3/4" MDF without making some serious changes to the design.  Home Depot has 8'x4'x0.5" MDF for ~$22, which is enough to make two CNC machines.  I'd recommend buying the correct thickness of MDF.
Feb 23, 2010. 6:37 AMbullschmidt says:
Very interesting.. I was curious if you thought this would have the precision to be used as an additive printer as well, aka a repstrap/reprap.  The large work area & higher speed seems very attractive (vs some lead screw CNCs). 
Feb 21, 2010. 12:26 PMzoltzerino says:
 Right, I am completely new to this. Well not completely but.....

Once this is made, what are the practical purposes?

Can It make a copy of itself?

How do I tell it what to do?

Is that a normal drill or something specific?
Dec 24, 2009. 12:24 AMkatzsplat says:
A big thanks to the author, oomlout for this terrific instructable.  I read this about one year ago, and purchased a kit from outland86 soon after.  I now have a fully working CNC machine thanks to them!

I want to provide a 3D model of this machine that I made in Google Sketchup for everyone to use to help learn more about how this machine fits together.  I've checked with the author, and he's fine with me providing it to the community.  I wish I had something like the model when I was first assembling the machine; it took a lot of trial-and-error to figure it all out.  Hopefully this model will make the road easier for future CNC'ers. 

I made this model because I plan to expand the Y-axis to 36", so now I have a virtual copy of my machine to modify.  Enjoy!

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=23e1c5366b479dca8963c446242873ee
oomlout-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine.png
Feb 14, 2010. 12:31 PMwaynerod says:
So is this the modified version or the original one? Please tell me...
Feb 15, 2010. 5:30 AMkatzsplat says:
This is the original model, as designed by author.  I have not shared my expanded design with anyone else.
Feb 15, 2010. 10:38 PMwaynerod says:
OK Thanks!!
Just what I was hoping for... I wanted the original version...

Thanks a lot for sharing this!!

-Wayne Rodrigues.
Jan 5, 2010. 4:19 PMstewartlab says:
do you  mind exporting this in a seperate format other than Sketchup???
Jan 23, 2010. 8:32 AMkatzsplat says:
Sorry, I can't do that.  The Pro version of Google Sketchup is required to export to other formats, but I only use the free version.  Anyone who has Sketchup Pro could do this very easily, any volunteers?
Jan 23, 2010. 11:06 AMrobotguy4 says:
"The Pro version of Google Sketchup is required to export to other formats..."
Not its not.  You just got to add some things to it.

Waddya want to export the file as?  STL?  DXF?  OBJ? .X?   Find the ruby script you want, download and install it .

By the way, Google Sketchup (free version) can also export COLLADA files (.dae or Digital Asset Exchange), which can be imported into a variety of other programs...
Jan 23, 2010. 12:45 PMkatzsplat says:
Sounds good robotguy4!  

To the rest of you: now you've got an easy way to convert the sketchup model to whatever format your heart desires.  Enjoy!
Jan 5, 2010. 11:38 AMjeff-o says:
Very cool, thanks for doing this!
Feb 15, 2010. 6:59 AMpiant says:
 how can I buy and allready made system like this one.
Feb 11, 2010. 12:43 AMwaynerod says:
Hi,
When you say X Axis Travel, you mean the distance the Dremel travels along the X axis?

Or do you mean that is the horizontal part of the base?

I guess it might be the first one right?

-Wayne Rodrigues.
Feb 12, 2010. 3:13 PMwaynerod says:
Could anyone please tell me the measurements for the base??

Please......

-Wayne Rodrigues.
Feb 14, 2010. 7:52 AMkatzsplat says:
Wayne,

The footprint of this machine is 31 inches on the X Axis, 25 inches on the Y axis.  The X Axis travel is about 14.5 inches, and the Y Axis travel is about 10 inches.  

You can learn more about the dimensions if you download my Sketchup 3D model of this machine, which I posted down below.
Feb 14, 2010. 12:31 PMwaynerod says:
Thanks a lot!!!
Feb 14, 2010. 10:20 AMoutland86 says:
Electronics for the router

The Best way to Run this Machine  is to use a free version of MACH 3 software up to 500 lines of gcode. available form Artsofts website of you can buy it at  www.makecnc.com
use it with a driver board that uses step and direction signals
these are available for  under $200 also at the URL above if you like.
you will need somthing like a 24 volt 6.5 amp power supply to run the driver board available on ebay just search under 24 volt CNC power supply. about $30 bucks
also paralell cable ,also available on ebay just search for CNC cable about $4
4 wire securty wire for hook up from home depot.

you can use small nema 23 steppers available plenty of places and  at www.makecnc.com

if you get the whole package from makecnc.com you get a configuration file to set the whole thing up turn key so you dont have to worry abouit trying to figure out the number of turns a screw will move the dremel and the belts etc etc. and port and pin setups

Just thought i would let you all know somthing about the electronics side of this project as somone asked about ports and pins







Feb 12, 2010. 10:29 PMthelastonekills says:
this cnc runs off what ports best
Feb 11, 2010. 12:54 AMwaynerod says:
Do you have a PDF file for A4 sized printing? Please.... This is instead of CNC-05-MDF-CutPattern(Rev3).pdf

Please... this would help me heaps as I don't have access to Letter Page Sizes (incase you don't know the size you have given for is for "Letter")


By the way, it will make a difference if I use A4 and Letter right? Coz this is designed for Letter and if I use A4 it won't be right.....
Jul 29, 2009. 9:08 AMgdykes says:
All finished! Machine works great! Constructed from 7 layer 1/2" plywood. Total cost under 500.00 and 2 weeks of construction in my spare time. I have photos if you are interested. Thank you
Feb 5, 2010. 9:41 AMdcorbett says:
Do you have drawings, pictures, etc?
I am researching the CNC market, and cannot decide whether to start small, or start with the one I want...
What software, controllers, etc did you use?
Thanks,
Doug
skibum2b@yahoo.com
Jan 25, 2010. 4:09 PMxx123j says:
+1 on that 3M spray adhesive.

Also what would it take to get this to mill nonferrous metals?
Dec 18, 2008. 7:53 AMAllenKll says:
For sticking down the paper, you could use rubber cement. I used to use it all the time for temporary gluing of paper patterns. It works quite well, and peels off with no residue. I've used it mostly on sheet metal, so the MDF may react differently. But it may be an option.
Jan 11, 2009. 4:36 PMwulfhardt says:
Regular ol' 3M "77" spray adhesive also works well. Lay down a non-overlapping layer of wide masking tape/painter's tape over your work piece, then spray the backside of your pattern with 77, then stick it to the tape layer. After cutting is completed, the tape makes it easy to remove the pattern.
Jan 24, 2010. 5:45 PMddl5290 says:
Trust me..  wulfhardt is right on.  
I layed down the masking tape, then sprayed the 77 on both the tape and back of the paper..  it dried in a few minutes and worked very well..  stayed on well for the cut process, and 
I had to go back and make some different motor spacers (to fit my motors) and just glued it to the mdf..  and wow I'm really glad I did that.
Jan 22, 2010. 10:15 AMcerberoos says:
 what is the tolerance of this machine? Can it drills only foam or have a good precision also for wood?
Jan 10, 2010. 1:37 PMhuntervalley says:

Would you sell a complete unit? If yes how much including delivery to Australia SYDNEY

Thanks in advance
JC

Jan 17, 2010. 7:03 AMoutland86 says:
shipping a complete kit to sydney costs about $800 usd not economical i have checked
but you will soon be able to get the FAB files( Gcode and instructions)
from my website www.makecnc.com
to be able to have one cut out for you no matter where in the world you are
about two weeks and they will be available
Jan 17, 2010. 12:02 AMagent says:
Sweet,  I want to build this so I can quit using my school's Epilog. I've been laser engraving everything! If I can make this I could finally etch my own PCBs.

But first: I'll make the acrylic version on my school's Epilog :P
Jan 15, 2010. 11:01 AMblackgear07 says:
Hello, i´m very overextended to find the right parts (screws, nuts and other), because im from germany and i don´t know the right dimension in metric!
please, could you help me and tell me the metric measure ?
Jan 15, 2010. 12:34 PMoscarthompson says:
You could use a converter, you won't need the mesurements to much in this project, as you work from a template. I normally use metric measure but imperial shouldn't be so hard ( 12 inches = 1ft).

Oscar
Jan 16, 2010. 2:49 AMblackgear07 says:
what is the difference between Nut 8mm and Nut #8?
for that is no converter!
Jan 16, 2010. 2:59 AMoscarthompson says:

#8 means number eight Nuts, I would suggest you get them from where he gets them or some where equivlient

Jan 10, 2010. 12:57 PMoscarthompson says:
what at the cross nuts for? can i use something instead
1-50 of 517

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